Dia(s) de los Muertos in Ajijic, Jalisco, Mexico

Much has been written, many photos taken, and many faces painted to resemble calaveras(skulls) all as part of the Mexican celebration of the Day of the Dead, Dia de Los Muertos. We first encountered the celebration in the Fruitvale district of Oakland, CA, a city we called home for 20 years. Fruitvale, like much of Oakland, has many cultures and nationalities, but on the weekend around Nov 1 it turns out in force to celebrate this very Mexican tradition. The most striking part of the observances for us were the altars, built by families or friends to remember a person, or persons, who had passed. Pictures, cut-out paper banners (papel picado), candles, food, drink, flowers, and the ubiquitous marigolds. We admired it for its powerful and elegant recognition of people gone – reflecting love and remembrance.

So, when we decided to move south to Mexico, we hoped to time things so that we could experience this Mexican tradition in person. We arrived in Ajijic, on the shore of Mexico’s largest freshwater lake, Lago de Chapala, in late October, a few days before the festivities began.

Day 1: October 31:  
We took a class at the Lake Chapala Society to learn more about this celebration. It was titled "Laugh at Death, you say?"

We started with a short introduction to the traditions of the celebration, and got to participate in the creation of an altar. The marigolds are intended to guide the spirits to their altar with their vibrant color and strong fragrance. Without a lot of elaboration, each altar should incorporate the elements of earth, wind, fire, and water, along with pictures of those honored, and things they liked while among us. If ever we have an altar, don’t forget the rum!

Betty and Jean were part of the altar too

We had always thought that Catrina was the name of the (now ubiquitous) skeleton lady, but in fact it refers to an elegant dandy (Catrino is the male version), and was intended as an object of ridicule when it first appeared around 1910 (Mexican Revolution), in an etching by artist Jose Guadalupe Posada. It was originally intended to poke fun at Mexicans ashamed of their heritage, who dressed in the European style, lightening their skin with makeup, trying to deny their cultural heritage. The first Catrina was only depicted from the waist up.  

de Jose Guadalupe Posada (y Wikipedia)

Catrina’s real popularity took off when Diego Rivera included her in a mural, about 1947, as a full-blown lady, standing next to Rivera and his wife, Frida Kahlo.   

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sue%C3%B1o_de_una_Tarde_Dominical_en_la_Alameda_Central

The intent, it is said, was to link Catrina with a long-standing Mexican willingness to laugh at death, even going back to the Aztecs. “Death is a neutralizing force, everyone is equal in the end." Beautiful.

October 31 here is actually a religious (Catholic) holiday celebrating the Virgin of the Rosary returning to her home chapel of Guadelupe on the square. OF COURSE there is a parade, with multiple "truck floats" from each neighborhood to accompany her around town.  Her colors are blue and white....

                                                                                                                                

Day 2: November 1: Dia de los Muertos for the children who have died.


The first real day of the holiday is for the children. Their graves are colorful, with toys, food, and flowers.

Child's grave, with pizza

Love the dogs and soccer balls, permanent part of the grave!

Day 3: November 2: The MAIN event

We were told, but can’t confirm, that the now-prevalent face painting is relatively new – like in the last 30 years or so. We tried it out on Nov 2, a little self-conscious as gringos trying on someone else’s tradition, but in general we got lots of smiles (which I guess could be taken in more than one way!). Linda got several “hermosa!” greetings, while my “Salvador Dali on acid” face paint job was less popular.

The square was also surrounded with sawdust “paintings” in the street – vibrantly colored sawdust, used to make many mosaic-like scenes.

The town is call "A-hee-HEEK"

Sawdust paintings at the square

We walked to the local cemetery that evening, having visited earlier in the day while families were busy decorating the graves of their loved ones. The daylight scene was amazing, but paled against the nighttime celebration. Bands, singers, families with food and beverage, a million flowers and candles. The closest I can come is a US football game and tailgate with strolling musicians added in.  And lots of flowers. Something not to be missed if you ever have the chance.

The celebration continued from the cemetery with a candlelight parade to the zocalo, which was filled with people, more bands, more singing, many Catrina statues (basically rebar figures adorned with – you name it). Our favorite Catrina had an elegant white wedding dress made of plastic, Styrofoam, plastic forks and spoons – Catrina Basura? 

A long wall across the street from the church was covered with hundreds of 7” x 10” terra cotta skull masks, each with someone’s name, and each with a small candle in front of it. It was stunning. 

 One saw,dust painting in Spanish, basically, “No one is dead who is remembered.” 

Words to live, and die by.  Viva Dia de Los Muertos!

Bienvenidos to our Blog!

Welcome to the INITIAL post on our blog!
(Blogs seem so 2005, but there are some uses.. like keeping our friends and family updated!)

It will come as a shock to most of our friends and family that we are NOT moving to a tropical place with scuba diving. (Yet)

We do have a "travelling mascot" however! Our Marquesan tiki god! (See a poll to name him, below, if you have a write in name, add to comments on this post!)

TravelTiki Flying to Guadaljara

We are moving to the Lake Chapala area of Mexico, in Jalisco. It is just 30 minutes south of the airport in Guadalajara (2nd largest city in Mexico), and only a 3.5 hour flight from San Jose, California!

We plan to be here about a year, learning how to be expats "with training wheels" as there is a great support structure here, with warm locals willing to help us transition. We do not plan to stay here indefinitely. But who knows? This may end up being our long term home eventually. It is pretty great so far! (2 weeks in....)

Why "eventually?" because we plan to start travelling the world....slowly.... in order to better learn about a place -- its people, food, activities, and culture. Also because we are still working a bit. In the future, at this point we plan to spend 3 to 6 months in each place, alternating expensive locations with not-so-expensive locations. Trying out housesitting (with dogs, we hope?!) and longer stays in non-holiday priced housing to stretch the budget.

So please be patient as we work this blogging stuff out. (Doesn't help that we're severely challenged with internet at our house...argh!)

Abrazos! Linda y Mark (aka Marco)