Headed to Oaxaca

Oaxaca, Mexico

October, November 2018

Mole at the grocery store

We’re going to start out with an apology -- not usually a great move on a blog, but gotta ‘fess up. Our last post was in SEPTEMBER about our August trip back NOB. Geez. In our defense, we will blame (in this order) the terrible internet where we were staying at Lake Chapala; Linda being busy with work (yes, still); and packing everything up (again) to move on to our next spot…Oaxaca! (“wah-ha’-kah”) 

Yes, potato salad

We arrived just before the Dias de Muertos (because it’s really multiple days) to Oaxaca City. They really do it big here, lots of events, decorations, celebrations. And tourists!

We went on a tour of 3 cemeteries around the city that night (November 2) – it was really interesting to see the differences in each.  At all of them, though, families were “tailgating” at their family graves – eating, some laughing or playing music, some more somber.

Oaxaca is a hot (as in trendy, though it can also be spicy too) food destination and so we took both a street food introduction and a cooking class to learn about another of the 7 moles – Mole Amarillo. Just prior to our trip, a Mexicana friend taught us how to make a Mole Verde as well, though we had a debate with the cooking class teacher about whether or not pepitas should be included! (ah, regional differences…) We have since had more moles, so that only leaves Chichilo and Manchamantel to go. (The others are Negro, Rojo, and Coloradito for those of you keeping score at home.) 

grilled octopus!

famous chapulines (grasshoppers)

The food is GREAT here. We’ve found fantastic bread, cheese, restaurants and street food. And the Oaxacan hot chocolate -- who needs milk?

Amazing Pan de Madre

Not polynesian tikis! 

There are lots of museums here (historical, textile, modern art, pre-hispanic art, stamps – yes stamps) and we have tried to see them all during our month in this diverse city of 300,000.

Great Textile Museum

Looks Japanese, but it's not! It's Zapotec!

In the state of Oaxaca, more than a million people speak at least one indigenous language, with 48% having some indigenous blood. There are 16 formal indigenous peoples, with the largest being Zapotecs and Mixtecs, who have been here since 2000 BCE. We went to the amazing ruins at Monte Alban, which functioned from 500 BCE 750 ACE.

Sasquatch stalking Monte Alban

We also saw the symphony for free, (thank you, Mexico!) which was really only so we could get in to see the Teatro Macedonio Alcala!

the ceiling art...pin up girls?

For Thanksgiving! Pre-hispanic art

And make no mistake this is nothing like our “villages” by Lake Chapala. There are more tourists, traffic, and noise (the cohetes and bands go around the clock when there is a party here!) And people are just not as likely to say “hola” to you here. There are many fewer gringos here, so we ARE speaking more Spanish!

We are staying in a very budget-friendly apartment which is technically in Oaxaca central, but to get to the main attractions it is almost a mile walk. The good news is that we are getting more exercise this way. If we come back, we would stay closer in, or to the north of centro.

learning about mezcal

Next up: a mezcal tour going to the farms in the mountains, a day tour of small villages in the mountains where there are many artisans, (weaving, pottery, and alejibres, the hand-carved, brightly painted creatures most recently featured in Pixar’s Coco.) At the end of November, we will be moving to the Oaxaca coast for about a month, (Puerto Escondido and Hualtulco,). And we promise we’ll post in a more timely manner!  

(22 noviembre 2018)