Learning about Chiles at Mercado Jamaica

DF (Mexico City), Mexico

Chiles are a fundamental part of Mexican cuisine, and every mercado you enter has at least a few stalls with beautiful chiles, of all shapes and sizes, fresh, dried, and smoked, piled high. There are over 140 varieties of chiles (not to be confused with pimienton, or pepper), and as much as we have focused on getting to knowing them, the goal has been elusive. We found a chile tasting class offered through Airbnb Experiences, and signed up immediately. Our host and teacher was Fernando, in the 3^rd generation of a family in the chile import and export business. This was easily one of the best food-related tours we have ever done, and Fernando’s knowledge and passion were inspiring.

Our "home landmark" in DF, Bellas Artes

We took the Metro from near Bellas Artes, an easy 20-minute trip (and 5 pesos per person!). Fernando met us and 4 others at the La Viga stop. From there we walked a block or so to the Mercado Jamaica, the largest flower market in all of Mexico. Fernando led us through the Mercado, starting in the flower section and progressing to the food area, then the regalos (gifts, etc.) area. Fernando knows many people in the market – he grew up there, his office is next door, and he lives next to it! Just the introduction to the market and the food tastings during our walk was worth the price of the tour.

Creative arrangments

The flower market -- the color, beauty, and prices of the flowers and arrangements for sale was hard to really take in. 

Flores everywhere!

At one booth, we sampled corn-based traditional Mexican foods, like esquites (corn with mayonnaise, cheese in a green corn husk,) and the breakfast drink, atole poblano. 

We also tasted chocolate, cheese, and some produce, all accompanied by Fernando’s excellent description of the history of the food and its importance in the history of Mexico. Fernando’s love of his country is very apparent, and infectious.  

sabroso esquites!

Fernando showed us how to identify chiles based on shape, and seed color (triangular/long = Mexico, rounded = Peru, black seeds = Bolivia). He explained the origins of chiles (they are only from Mexico, Peru, Brazil, and Bolivia,) and how they have spread around the world.

The actual class was held in a very comfortable room in the back of the family store. 

Mark and Bay Area visitor 

We were each provided with a molcajete (stone mortar) and plates of prepared (meaning comal-toasted, sliced, etc.) ingredients to make our own salsa. He explained all the ingredients (3-4 types of fresh and dried chiles, onions, garlic, cilantro,) so we could customize to our taste. He also taught us the proper process and steps for making a salsa in the molcajete. We then sampled each other’s creations (yikes!), on very tasty chicharron tacos placeros! 

Tasty fried pig skin!

Next, we each were served a tamal with mole negro, made by the wife of a grower of the rare and coveted chile chilhaucle negro, which is in danger of extinction. 





...and a little mezcal de espadin to accompany it. The last course was a chile dessert! A mango popsicle with chiles and lime juice.





We thoroughly enjoyed our day with Fernando, and learned much more about chiles. We also bought a lovely noche buena (poinsettia) in the market to be our Christmas tree for 2018!

diciembre 2018