Morelia & Mariposas Monarcas

Michoacán, Mexico

Lots of Ms!

Trekking up to see the monarch butterflies near Morelia, Mexico is on most “must do” lists. We decided a couple of months back to dip our toes in the guided tour waters once again (the last time was a trip to Delphi in 1992!) – a decidedly risky plan (as far as enjoyment goes), since we prefer basic autonomy in our travel. The tour turned out to be a big mistake for us, for a few reasons, but  here is what we learned that might be useful to fellow travelers.

First, as you will likely know, there is a season when the monarcas are present in Mexico. So start by finding out about their presence, or lack thereof. Also be aware that they will just cling to tree branches if it isn’t warm enough – just the luck of the draw, and no one’s fault. On the trees, they are a green-gray color, impressive in their numbers, but not the kaleidoscope of orange and black (the ONLY time Mark likes that color combo!) that most folks hope for when they make the trip. We went in late February, and they were there for sure.

HA

They are there, weighing down the branches

Back of woman's shirt!

Part of 5000 visitors that day on the dusty trail

Second, DO NOT GO ON A WEEKEND. It seems this is favored by tour operators, and of course Mexican families. We quit counting tour buses at 35, and literally the trail up, and back, was choked with about 5000 (choking) people. The dust was terrible, and once we got to the lookout area, there were hundreds of people all milling about. Third, be aware that the lookout area is at about 10,000 feet, and the climb up took us nearly one hour (our fitness level is about 5 out of 10 right now, but still....). The combination of climb and altitude is not trivial. 

There are 3 sanctuaries - El Rosario, Sierra Chincua, and Cerro Pelon, in decreasing order of touristy. The first 2 are best reached from a small town called Angangueo, where no doubt you can find a guide to take you. The last, least touristy but most challenging, hike-wise, in Cerro Pelon, best reached from another small town called Zitacuaro. Best bet, hire a local guide (finding this info is why Al Gore made the internet!), and go in a smaller group during the week. It may actually be cheaper overall anyway (than the mega-bus), and certainly more enjoyable.

OK, yes we were here, and survived

Finally, there is a gauntlet of food and souvenir vendors at the start/finish of the hike, and they are not shy! We must have said "no gracias" 100 times to get back to the parking lot and all those buses! Note that the best towns to access the sanctuaries from does NOT include Morelia. We spent 2+ hours on the bus each way, going over probably 100 topes (Mexican speed bumps) along the way. 

Everyone gets into butterflies!

awwwww...

But Morelia should be on your "must see" list while in Michoacán. It is a beautiful city, with lots to see and experience, including good food, so good Michoacan food is designated by Unesco as an "Intangible Heritage" to be preserved. 

Morelia was designed about 400 or so years ago to be a “showplace city”, reflecting the wealth and power based there. The planners did a good job, the city is gorgeous, and great for walking.

The cathedral on the plaza is very nice, and there is a silver “baptistry,” which weighs 1,000 lbs. Imagine that much silver! It is stunning.

The better religious building in our opinion was the Santuario de Guadelupe, which we were told was built for the local Indios to have a place “for them,” hmmm. What is true is that it is covered inside with bright colors, the most prominent of which is gold.

Also impressive, was a park with a huge statue of Morelos (the town namesake) on a horse, and also near the aqueduct, which was cool.

Jose Maria Morelos: Priest Warrior

We went to the Casa Morelos Museum, ( not to be confused with the Museo Casa de Morelos Natal). The displays are very interesting, and the signage, in both Español and English, is excellent. Its focus is, of course, the role that Morelos, played in the Revolucion that began with Hidalgo’s El Grito in September 1811. 

Revolutionary band

We also liked Palacio Clavijero, a very nice art museum, beautiful building, plaza, fountain. Exhibitions rotate, so who knows what you will find, but we saw maybe 10 different salas with different exhibits and all were interesting. 

We saw one exhibit of photos taken during the 1910-ish Mexican Revolution by a female photographer, Sara Castrejon;

...and another dedicated to Paricutin Volcano, including hand sketchbooks from “Dr. Atl," (Gerardo Murillo Cornado, a Mexican painter and writer,) and paintings by him and Diego Rivera of the volcano that literally spewed forth from a Mexican corn field in 1943.

 

And a whole room full of modern interpretations by multiple artists of the game hopscotch (rayuela,) and a book of the same name by Julio Cortazar.  The starting boxes were labeled terre (land) and the final top box, cielo (sky). The interpretations were very cool.

On most Saturday nights, they have fireworks above the cathedral, and close many of the streets around the main plaza. 

There are vendors of all sorts (Michoacan is known for food and sweets!) 

Eating a cocada -- Mounds on steroids!

A highlight was the Purepecha Dance of the Old Men. The Purepecha are a pre-Hispanic group of indigenous people in Michoacan. The dance is traditionally performed by 4 viejtos (old men,) one each for earth, wind, fire, and water, and the original reason for the dance was to show man’s constant fight against death, as well as to ask for a good corn harvest. Some say it has evolved to mock the Spanish conquerors who became stooped and frail in old age.

The dancers are in fact young men, dressed in white peasant clothing, wearing a sarape over the shoulder, a wooden mask of an old man, and a flat top, broad-brimmed straw hat festooned with colorful ribbons, using a cane. They start by walking stooped over, holding their lower back. Then one starts what becomes a very energetic dance, with loud wooden sandals slapping away on the pavement. There are a few dances, accompanied by a small band (maybe just a bass and a guitar). We saw a graduated group...adult, young man, boy and little boy. It is quite a spectacle and crowd pleaser.

More amazing things seen and experienced in wonderful Mexico!

Caught jet in sunset on the way back

(febrero 26, 2018)